Stumbling into hot water in Trastevere
We had just arrived back in Rome after trips to Venice, Florence, and the lovely little hilltop town of Assisi. In the morning we were due to fly back to Vancouver, a 22-hour flight and we were already fatigued from a month of exploring. There was just enough time to visit Testervere (Trast-EVERY) once again, our favorite neighbourhood in Rome, tiny cobblestone lanes winding though old and sometimes ancient buildings, a old neighbourhood that is now a bustling tourist attraction with trattorias, cafe, churches and shops. There was enough time left to find a souvenir of Testervere, an object hard to find anywhere even in Trastevere where fridge magnets, coffee coasters and postcards all carried images of the Colosseum or the Pope.
Trastevere, like Venice, is a very easy place to get lost. We knew where Cannonica restaurant was located because we had enjoyed pasta and pizza there three times, so we went to look for it as place for lunch. You can enjoy a wide variety of food in Rome, including pizza, pasta, salads, pizza and pasta. Across the lane was a souvenir shop. It displayed the usual assortment of souvenirs, including fridge magnets of Trastevere that we had not seen anywhere else. We bought one for our son Conor because he has a fridge where he likes to keep cold beer. Actually he was the one who tipped us off to Trastevere on a previous trip he made to Rome, so it would be a memory jog for him.
We went inside to pay, which is where we noticed a glorious display of hand drawn cards of Trastevere that we had not seen anywhere else. We asked the shopkeeper who had drawn them. Dario, his name, explained he was the artist who had drawn all of them. They were so lovely we had to buy one, but which one? We selected a large and lively one that contained a shop, cafe and people.
“That’s an interesting choice” said Dario, “because that is my own shop you have chosen. Cannonica is across the way.”
We had a chat. He was born in Trastevere and had lived there all his life. The neighbourhood had changed dramatically, previously poor working class transformed into a tourist attraction because of its marvelous sense of well-preserved charm. At night it was a party zone, both for Romans and tourists, but we explained that we loved it in the day time, just to wander around. His shop was called Calliadium Gallery, the word a mixture of his first and last names.
“It means hot water in Italian,” he said with a smile. We talked for awhile. Business was very good but many local people were moving away because of all the tourists. “It is wonderful to meet and talk with you.”
It is rare you accidently get to meet the artist of any artwork you like. Better yet to meet an artist with his own shop who loves to tell stories. He told us of some secret places to visit in the neighborhood that no tourists knew. In just a few minutes we became friends. I told him I was a writer and would include this story in my upcoming photobook of Italy. I asked him to join me in a photo. He gave me his card and email and asked me to send him a copy of the story. As soon as I add the photo to this story in a minute, I will send him a copy of it and my own email and we may meet in Vancouver some time. Should you go to Trastevere yourself, please drop into his shop and kindly say hello to him for me. I think he would like that. I know I would too.