Exploring Vancouver’s Great Streets and Little Villages
Recently the Vancouver Sun ran an article about “great streets” in Vancouver. This was in reaction to a magazine article that raved about Commercial Drive being a great street, not because of any magnificent or historic buildings but because of the vibrant street life there. It’s time for more information on that valuable topic called “community.”
City planners and the current civic administration in Vancouver seem determined to turn the entire city into clusters of cold highrise towers for those rich enough to afford them. Such tall towers don’t create a feeling of community. Luckily, there are many delightful little “villages” that still exist within Vancouver, with shops and places to eat and drink, or just hang out. That’s if you know where to find these villages. Here are some you may not know. More to follow in the future….
Arbutus Walk a Sign of Streets to Come
There are several new subway stations set to open on various corners along Broadway. At present the area around Arbutus and Broadway is a fairly quiet neighbourhood, but that is quickly changing thanks to the wonderful newly developed residential community called Arbutus Walk, a dense low rise residential village hidden away just south of Broadway and west of Arbutus, the kind of low rise development that should be copied all over the city.
The block between Broadway and 10th along the Arbutus Greenway has been approved for future commercial and residential development, but new commercial development has already taken place on Arbutus itself between 10th and 16th. Start your explorations at Broadway and Arbutus. Walk or cycle one block south to 10th and then turn right (or west). There are dozens of six-story townhome buildings tucked away here, out of sight. According to UBC Professor Paul Condon, the same density of development from this low rise style is achieved without turning any neighbourhood into ice cold towers devoid of any community feeling.
On the corner of Arbutus and 11th you will discover the lovely little neighbourhood bar Coquette Brasserie (live jazz on Thursday nights). On the corner south is Trees Organic Coffee. Cross the street and you’ll find Plaisir Sucre, a delightful little French patisserie. Stroll south down to Sweet Barrel Creamery and Café. Along this side of the street are several little shops selling upscale linens, gifts, flowers and jewellry. If you wish to see how density can be developed in a way that community evolves, have a stroll or ride around Arbutus Walk.
South Victoria Street a community gem off the beaten track
While Main and Fraser Streets south of 33rd have gained popularity in recent years due to their low rents, plethora of dining options, funky supermarkets and warm ambience, the South Victoria region between 33rd and 41st also exudes a real feeling of community, with busy sidewalks and many small shops worth exploring. The neighbourhood is well served by bus transit and there are many places to park or lock your bike.
Starting at 34th, the Ukrainian Eatery and Mill stands in sharp contrast with its neighbour across the street Vietnamese Hoi Ann, eastern European versus Southeast Asian. Hoi An is always packed so you have been warned. Just south of Hoi An is Chau Veggie Express, Vietnamese as well. At 35th pop into J.J. Sri Lankan supermarket and look for new tastes from South Asia. This is a very interesting block for dining options reflective of the wide diversity of the local population.
South of the Sri Lankan market you’ll find Bun Cha Ca Hoang Yen Vietnamese restaurant, always packed. On the corner of 36th is La Maison Da Nang, a French Vietnamese café. Across the street in a mini-mall you find El Caracol, a Salvadorian Café, and Dang Anh, another Vietnamese outlet. Just north is Neighbours, a “Canadian” local diner always busy. On the corner of 36th is Krsma, an Indian café, next to Calvin’s Szechuan, a Taiwanese option.
Continuing south you’ll find florists, nail spas, with Jones Park as a picnic option for take out, and the usual community necessities from tire shops to hardware to spas and medical offices. Across the street you’ll find Hapag Ihaw Ihaw, a Filipino option. Finally on 39th, for a dessert, try Kamo Middle Eastern Bakery. It’s a lovely walk through a real and thriving village that proves Vancouver is one of the world’s most multicultural cities.
Kitsilano still maintains its village character after all these years
For many years 4th Street in Kitsilano has been one of the most interesting streets in Vancouver. It maintains its village vibe through its multitude of small shops, cafes, restaurants, boutiques and a casual laid back atmosphere, even when the sidewalks are super busy as they usually are.
Starting at Burrard and running west to McDonald, 4th Avenue offers something for everyone, from pubs to fashion outlets to bookstores. Yes, there are some big corporate brands to be found, but the community has not fallen into the trap that befell Robson Street, now home to high-end big-name corporate boutiques that can be found in any big city.
Nowadays hip cafes and restaurants on 4th Avenue are cheek by jowl. If there is a drawback it’s that sometimes it feels too busy. Parking is difficult so take the bus or ride a bike. Start at Burrard and work your way west, peering into windows or dropping into to browse the many shops. You could spend all day browsing. Many of the little restaurants, pubs and shops have been there for what seems forever, and it would be most appreciated if they continue to do so.
Kits Beach evolving into a new little village
Kitsilano Beach is a well-known summer attraction for Vancouverites. Few know there is a second attraction and that it’s located right across the road on Yew. Kits Beach is also evolving into an urban village of its own and there may be more people sitting in the bars, cafes and restaurants on Yew Avenue than there are sunshine lovers basking across Cornwall.
Local Public Eatery’s outdoor patio at Yew and Cornwall is constantly packed in sunny hours. A few paces up the street is popular pasta bar Nook, next door to Viva Café and Bakery. Cross York Avenue up to MunChicken, Café Zen, Lucky Taco and Chewies Smoke and Oyster Bar. On the other side of the street you’ll find The King’s Head Pub and the Cider House. On the corner, there’s Basil’s Pasta Bar. Walking downhill, there’s Paradiso Caffe and Gelato, the Blue Martini Jazz Café, and Kibuni Sushi.
On the north side of Cornwall two blocks to the east at Maple Street there’s Kits Café, followed by Moltan, Bakery By Jany, Cockney Kings Fish and Chips, Vera’s Burger Shack, and Juliet’s Café. Not enough? On the next block in a mini-mall are Starbucks, Pizza Pizza, Siegal’s Bagels and Triple O Burgers. This is a village with a hearty appetite.
A few paces up Cypress there’s Panes From Heaven Café, and on West First you’ll find New Fuji, Oddfish Seafood, and fine dining at Anna Lena. Aside from all the dining options, the casual visitor will also find little shops and boutiques. Vancouverites whose only knowledge of Kits Beach is sand and water will surely change as more and more people discover this evolving little community in which to walk, shop and eat.
West Broadway a great street already with no need for more density
The Broadway Plan launched by the current politicians at City Hall envisions venerable 9th Avenue evolving into a “Great Street, (at least from Main to Arbutus) thanks to the upcoming subway line. Who knows what it will look like if it’s lined with highrise towers? Some would say that West Broadway from McDonald to Alma is already a great street and it’s not because of any subway or towers.
The laidback village atmosphere comes from its profusion of small shops and lowrise buildings. The entire street is a delight to amble along, have coffee or lunch, or (if you are a lucky local) shop for your groceries. Take your time; you will need all day if you plan to walk one end to the other.
Starting from the south side of the street at McDonald, Gandy’s Hardware exemplifies the “small is better” approach to doing business. No giant Canadian Tire or Home Depot here. Yes, JJ Bean Coffee Roasters on the next corner is a chain business but why not pop across the street to Purebread Bakery and Coffee instead? Or keep going to the Neverland Tea Salon. Tiny Mamalee is one of the top-rated Malaysian restaurants in the entire city, right next to Nostos Greek Taverna. You’ll find a wide variety of ethnic cuisines all along the street. Persian, Afghani, Chinese, Vietnamese, sushi? It’s all there.
The Hollywood Theatre personifies the community and adds to the village vibe. At one time a typical neighbourhood movie house showing mainstream films, it fell into disrepair with the introduction of streaming services, but local activists decided to work together to save the venerable old hall and modernize the space to host live events. Much of West Broadway preserves the same old timey village feel, with the exception of McDonalds and Tim Hortons. You can easily call it a Great Street already, and you don’t need anyone at City Hall to help out, so better they butt out and leave perfection alone.
False Creek South/North
First planned back in the 1970s and built mostly in the 1980s and 90s, False Creek South is a prime example of the idyllic thinking that prevailed at that time, to create an ideal community that people of all income streams could enjoy. To a great degree much of that idealism still exists. False Creek South is a linear village of lowrise townhomes with some modest towers spread along a park like setting located right next to the Seawall. While there is no central plaza to the community, Leg in Boot Square attracts residents to lounge in comfort, with a café and some shops and occasional live music. Around the corner at Stamps Landing there are three restaurants with fabulous views and a dock for the little ferries that ply the Creek. The views everywhere on the entire Seawall are amazing.
Arriving at the Skytrain station on West 2nd Avenue, walk north along Moberly to the Seawall. Here you have a choice or turning west and walking to Granville Island, or east to Olympic Village, both about 20 minutes.. On the other side of the Creek lies the newer community of False Creek North, a dense sea of aqua-green towers that contrast sharply with the open park-like setting of the south shore, but it’s still quite livable. The centre of False Creek North, if you will, is found at the foot of Davie Street with several shops and cafes. You can walk there across Cambie Bridge from the south and enjoy a stroll all around the perimeter of False Creek, soaking in the views. Make a day of it.
Olympic Village a new community to savour
Built to house athletes for the 2010 Olympic Games, the housing development centred around a large square has truly evolved into a little village. The square faces False Creek Seawall and has great views. Clustered around the Square are four restaurants, two cafes, a pharmacy, liquor store, grocery store, and more. Occasional live music is played in the square. A skytrain stops at the intersection of Main and Terminal next to Science World. The walk along the eastern end of False Creek to Olympic Square is lovely. Take your time. There’s much to look at and enjoy.
Cambie Village still a delight to visit
There are two sections of Cambie Village, north and south of Broadway. The northern part above Broadway is fairly new, featuring several big box stores and little cafes and restaurants. Thanks to the subway on the corner of Broadway the area is already very busy with foot traffic. The view of the North Shore mountains is currently unimpeded. Grab a coffee, sit down and enjoy the view. Walk south to 16th and 19th to stroll the original village, several delightful blocks of little shops, cafes, restaurants, grocery stores and a movie house. It’s a real community. The options to pause and eat or shop are endless.
Broadway Central a vibrant and busy street to people watch
Thanks to the long time nearby presence of Vancouver General Hospital on 10th, this region of Broadway from Cambie to Oak has always been full of pedestrians, medical shops, restaurants, cafes, book stores, and the upcoming second subway stop at Broadway and Cambie will only bring more foot traffic. There are clusters of patios on the street close to Cambie where you can sit and watch the world go by. Its a community of a different sort, busy shoppers and workers and lots of energy going on. Great people watching.
A civic plaza is planned for the area just north of City Hall and south of the new subway station. Whether this plaza becomes a centre for the local neighbourhood or the entire city depends on city planners. At present three giant towers are planned for the eastern section of the plaza, which would certainly darken any semblance of a village square, but time will tell what happens next. Certainly the new subway station will dramatically increase foot traffic in the entire neighbourhood. Village feel or urban metropolis? We’ll soon see.
Punjabi Village remains a visit to a different culture
Since many new immigrants from India have settled in Surrey rather than South Vancouver, the “Little India” community called Punjabi Village between 49st and 51th on Main has shrunk in size and influence but the little village still maintains its allure, especially for those who first discover that it still exists. The little community remains like a trip to India without the airfare and time involved.
The market is easily reached by bus or bike. If you drive, parking is available in the alleys west of Main. Start your perambulations at the southwest corner of 49st and Main. A fairly new building offers up a Tom Hortons, a Freshi outlet and a fried chicken store (hardly indicative of Punjabi culture) but keep walking. Next is a little fashion store selling East Indian outfits and then the Himalaya restaurant looms into view. This large restaurant has been serving up Indian food and desserts for decades. It’s well worth a visit whether you love Indian food or not. Try the huge dessert selection.
It may be that you don’t want to buy a sari while ambling around, but don’t be afraid to stick your nose in some windows or drop into a store to stay hello. It’s a whole different world. Riwaaz Boutique sells women’s clothing. Next to it, the Punjab Food Market sells fresh vegetables at low prices, and have a look at all the exotic spices you can buy! Don’t be shy. Across the street, more little shops entice, mostly jewellry and fabrics. Dhamaka restaurant offers an alternative to the Himalaya. Around the corner on 49th you’ll find Desi Rosai, which describes itself as “Indian street food.” Walk around and you’ll find a whole little world hidden right under your nose. On the annual Versaki festival as many as 500,000 Punjabi Indians will come to celebrate. Mark that date on your calendar.
Food Street brings sizzle to the Golden Village in Richmond
On the map it’s shown as Alexander Street in Richmond but unofficially it’s called Food Street. It may be the only street in any suburb in any city in the world with over 200 restaurants, but that’s the current estimate in the Golden Village, as the wider neighbourhood is known. Every Asian cuisine you can imagine is included on Food Street, but the fact is that the entire Golden Village is full of restaurants and interesting Asian shops. The community is a delight to explore, but invisible. You just need to know where to go.
There are also several large Asian malls, with a wide array of shops and food courts, and many faceless mini-malls, and yet more small shops to explore. It’s hard to find the wonders hidden under the surface. You need a guide. Perhaps one day some chef or entrepreneur will write one. Meanwhile, should you want to experience the Village for the first time, simply park near one end of Food Street and walk along and look in the windows. Later on, try one of the bigger malls like Aberdeen, Yaohan, Parker Place, Empire Center, or Lansdowne Mall. The Golden Village is a real treat to discover for the first time.
River District plaza emerges as little village near Fraser River
Chances are you have never heard of the River District nor have any idea where it is. Currently it’s an emerging suburb with a little village at its core. Buried away south of Marine Drive at the foot of Boundary, it never existed at all until a few short years ago when Wesbuild Group started construction. Despite being still under construction, the town centre is well worth an exploration. Look for West Sawmill Crescent. It’s a dense highrise street, with small shops, a Panago Pizza outlet and Vietnamese District Noodle House on the west end. Across the street Boketto Tea Bar serves up pastries and bubble teas. On the corner by the central plaza Bufala offers fresh, scratch-made contemporary pizzas in the Napolitana style.
At the village centre there’s a lovely plaza with benches and landscaping and a few outdoor games (table tennis, foosball) to enjoy. Next to Bufala you’ll find Lucky Taco, there’s a Starbucks on the plaza and the entrance to a large Save-On Foods store. Also Local Public Eatery, a swank restaurant with a huge amount of outdoor dining under umbrellas. Strolling further down Sawmill Cresent you’ll find Sushi Mura. When finished River District looks like it will be an interesting destination to explore. The riverfront trail on the Fraser River goes on forever. You could spend an entire day wandering it. Remember, you read it here first. Vancouver is a city full of little villages; you just need to know where to look.
South Fraser a Thriving Multicultural Neighbourhood
South Vancouver has thriving neighborhoods on several main streets, if you just know where to look. For instance, South Fraser between 41st and 49th is a real delight if you like little shops, ethnic foods, vegetable stands, cafes and restaurants. You can get there by bus or bike, and there is lots of paid parking in the alleys west of Fraser between 43rd and 49th if you need to drive.
Start your explorations at 43rd on the west side of the street and walk south. On the northwest corner of 44th Angel Café serves up Hong Kong-style Chinese food, while across the street Good Choice is also Chinese, but upscale. Next up is Paratha Express, Indian fast food. Mixed in with the food offerings are small markets, barbers and hair designers, clinics, dollar and import stores, dentists, banks, coin laundries, hardware and fabric stores, all of them small in size, including smaller prices.
In many ways South Fraser resembles the way Kitsilano used to look many years ago before it was “discovered” and went upscale. Did we mention dining options? Filipino, Chinese, Indian. Korean, Vietnamese? They are all available. (Hyderabad is my choice for the best South Indian food in Vancouver.) Let’s not forget bakeries. The famous and well-deserved title of Best Bakery in Town goes to the Breka Bakery chain, so when you get to 49th drop into that Breka for a bite.
Cross the street and walk south. Should you wish to buy a picnic and eat outside, South Memorial Park is only two blocks east, and it boasts a little pond where you can watch the ducks duck and dabble. Don’t feed them! Enjoy a pastry yourself from Breka or Maxim’s Bakery as dessert, and make plans to come back again and enjoy all the other delights this little village offers.
Main Street offers multiple little neighbourhoods to explore
Main Street is certainly a “great street” of Vancouver to wander and explore, but it shares the same problem as Kingsway. There is so much to see and the many interesting neighbourhoods are all spread out. The solution is to tackle one section at a time and leave the other offerings to another time. Starting near the waterfront, Lower Main near Hastings (or is that Upper) is a gritty slice of town and not a pleasant village. Move on.
Main between Broadway and 16th has several interesting cafes and shops but it’s a bit spread out to walk. You might want to jump forward to 16th and walk south from there. By all means drop into the Heritage Hall at 15th and have a look inside. Stroll south to 18th where Main makes a curve. On the corner An and Chi is a very popular upscale Vietnamese restaurant for a lunch. Jumping forward to 19th, ignore the Pizza Hut and fried chicken outlet and resume walking. Neptoon Records actually sells records! There are many little clothing shops, cafes and mini-malls. Turn around at 25th and walk back on the other side of the street.
Main between 25th and 30th is the heart of the village, with lots of little shops and dining options. Cross the street and head back on the other side. Back on 25th, Helen’s Grill has been in business as a diner since forever. There are multiple ethnic dining options all along Main, and funky little shops to also explore. The street has pay parking, and is well served by buses, but if you ride your bike by all means remember to lock it up.
Burnaby Heights a browsing delight and true community
The Amazing Brentwood, a new dense high rise community nearing completion along Lougheed Highway in Burnaby is an example of exactly how NOT to build community. Much like Metrotown in south Burnaby, it’s a collection of skinny towers boasting huge underground malls with immense parking lots, with very little foot traffic on the streets. Luckily, if you know “old” Burnaby along East Hastings Street, that community still contains many small unique shops and the sidewalks are bustling with people. Now branded as Burnaby Heights, it’s a hidden village that few people outside of Burnaby know about.
Take the bus, cycle or drive to the 4000 block of East Hastings. (There is a very large free parking lot behind the shops of the north side of the 4100 block). The south side of the 4000 block has several interesting shops, including a bakery and the old-fashioned Glenburn Soda Fountain and Confectionary. The south side of the 4100 block is even better, low rise buildings with shop after shop enticing shoppers to fruit and vegetable markets, restaurants, Italian meat markets and delis, barbers, pizza parlours, all with a 1950’s vibe.
If there is a drawback, it’s the lack of outdoor seating to sit on the sidewalk and enjoy the ambience. There are small tables on the sidewalks, or you can do take out and head a few blocks northeast to huge Confederation Park and enjoy a picnic. The 4200 and 4300 blocks also offer butcher shops, cafes, a bakery and gelato, and more small ethic restaurants. The entire neighbourhood is a throwback to the ways things used to be in many Vancouver neighbourhoods before property developers told City Halls how they would like to improve their own profits by building high rise towers whose top floors sell for many millions of dollars. Try the Heights instead.
Kingsway is Vancouver’s Greatest Street but you need a guide to find anything
Main Street in Vancouver is a delight to explore, but it’s a very long street with various interesting sections so you need a guide to tell you where to go. Kingsway is also a fascinating street, but you need a seeing eye dog to even begin where to begin. Forget about parking somewhere and simply strolling a few blocks. Kingsway goes on forever, from Vancouver to Burnaby to New Westminster, a bizarre mix of autobody shops, cheap grocery markets, light industrial, tiny ethnic restaurants, mini-malls, offices, medical and dental clinics, and the list goes on. It’s Vancouver’s most interesting street.
Where to stop and stroll and peek in windows? Unfortunately, there is no single block along Kingsway to do that. Wonderful delights can be found everywhere, interspersed with light industry and boring mini-malls. You could try the “Vietnamese Triangle” at Fraser and Kingsway, where the first Vietnamese community in town sprang up after the US/Vietnamese war. The Ba-le Vietnamese Bakery is still there, but clustered around little McCauley Park there are also two Mexican restaurants, plus high-end Italian and French. There are picnic tables in the park so you could do take-out.
Many Vietnamese restaurants, grocery markets, cafes and stores can be found all along Kingsway, plus Korean, Chinese, Singapore, Burmese, and Indian, and interesting little stores to serve those various communities. Moving further east to Burnaby is more of the same. These delights are hidden in mini-malls or in tiny shops, and the only way to find them is to stop, park (or get off the bus) and stroll. This might take some time, but there’s one easy way to get started.
Forget about ugly cold Metrotown and its immense mall, food courts and shops. Drop into the almost invisible Crystal Mall on Kingsway just past Central Park and wander around. Invisible from the street, hidden inside the Crystal are several floors of little shops and markets and an Asian food court with no corporate brands in sight. Even if you don’t eat, just strolling around makes you feel like you have been transported to Kowloon or Hong Kong.
Otherwise, look at Google Maps, pick a block along Kingsway that looks interesting and off you go. Aside from the wasteland that is Metroland the streets are alive with people shopping, eating and doing business. It might take some effort to find what you want but the payoff at the end is worth the trouble
Still to come….
North Shore villages
Queensbury Village
Central Lonsdale
Lower Lonsdale and the Shipyards
Deep Cove
Lynn Valley
Edgemont Village
Ambleside Village
Dundarave Village
Horseshoe Bay