Breezing towards Bamfield in beautiful BC on a busy boat
British Columbia in summer is paradise, especially those remote wilderness regions otherwise so hard to access. Chances are you have never heard of the very remote and tiny village of Bamfield on the west coast of Vancouver Island. If you ever get a chance, book a cruise on the cargo ship MV Frances Barkley that departs from the town of Port Alberni and cruises slowly down the Alberni Inlet for several hours, stopping at tiny settlements to deliver mail and cargo before arriving at the Bamfield dock. In the bright summer sunshine it’s the scenic cruise of a lifetime.
The Barkley is a 65-year old heritage vessel originally from Norway. The 36-metre vessel carries up to 144 passengers and 100 tons of cargo at a speed of 9.9 knots. Should you book a reservation, the cruise also produces memories of a lifetime so be sure to bring your camera. With luck you may see humpback whales, Orcas, eagles and bears. In late summer the salmon are running so you will certainly see smaller boats fishing for salmon.
Bamfield is surrounded by Crown land, First Nation lands of the Huu-ay-aht people, and portions of Pacific Rim National Park. At last count the community had a population of 179 hardy souls, although that census probably refers to those hardy folks who live there all year, which would be quite an accomplishment given the wind and heavy rain of the winter months. In summer, tourists arrive via the Barkley for a noon hour lunch, which means either a snack on the boat courtesy of the ship’s galley, or a lunch at Flora’s restaurant just next to the dock, now expanded into a small hotel, or a meander south along the boardwalk with a picnic sandwich in hand looking for a bench on which to sit and savour the view.
But the real attraction is the wooden boardwalk that meanders south of the dock along the water. It’s a 20-minute stroll, or longer should you wish to stop and savour the views or a picnic There are old cottages and some fisherman shacks and smaller docks along the way. Near the end, just before the government dock, at 275 Boardwalk you’ll find The Wreckage. Formerly a fish and chips cafe, on my visit a French chef unloading supplies reported that fish and chips were still available (on the days when the Wreckage is open) but the culinary options are sharply upgraded from time to time to include shellfish and other options purchased from the local Indigenous people.
The east side of the Inlet requires future examination but the Frances Barkley only allows for a 90-minute stop. Googling the topic of an overnight stay, there are several options, a motel and other accommodations available. Water taxis are available to ferry passengers across the inlet, for those who choose to stay a few days until the Barkley returns on its next visit. There are also several bed and breakfasts available on the west side of the inlet, plus many trails and beaches and I think there may be whale watching expeditions as well.
Plan well ahead because these scenic cruises are very popular among those lucky folks who have somehow heard about this secret. Port Alberni, not so scenic, has lots of accommodation options, and since the Barkley leaves the Alberni dock early in the morning you are best advised to book any rooms in Alberni well in advance as well. Bring your sunscreen, binoculars and camera as well as your wallet. Even if you pack a picnic lunch, the smell of fish and chips wafting through the air at the Bamfield dock may prove irresistible.
All this in a tiny village far removed from the bubble and trouble of the big city, if only you knew where to look? Yes, it’s true, only I suggest that the summer would be the best (or only) time to visit, when the sun is shining and the fish (and humpback whales) are jumping, the Barkley is cruising down the inlet, and all is well with the world. Enjoy, and promise me don’t tell anyone about this little slice of paradise you have now discovered.